The 5 Phases of the Microlocs & Sisterlocks Journey: From Fantasy to Flourish
The microlocs or Sisterlocks journey is more than just a hairstyle, it’s a transformation inside and out. As your hair goes through the natural locking process, you’ll also notice shifts in your confidence, patience, and self-expression. Every set of microlocs passes through distinct phases, from the starter or beginner phase, to the budding phase, the teenage stage, and finally the mature or established phase.
But what exactly happens in each stage of the microlocs journey? How long does each phase last? And how can you tell where you are in your own journey? At Omalocs Beauty, we break down the phases of the microlocs journey in a way that’s simple, clear, and encouraging, so you can celebrate your growth, understand your hair better, and enjoy every step as your locs evolve into their beautiful, final form.
Phase 0: Fantasy
[Timing: Month 0]
The microlocs journey actually begins before your locs are installed. This is what we call the “Fantasy Phase,” the time when you’re dreaming about microlocs but haven’t yet taken the leap.
By now, you’re likely feeling frustrated with your natural hair routine. Detangling feels endless, and “protective styles” are doing more harm than good. Maybe you’re stuck in a mini-twist phase, or you’ve been installing braids back-to-back with no time in between.
Then, you see it… a beautiful set of microlocs or Sisterlocks that stops you in your tracks. You don’t know much yet, but you’re intrigued. Curiosity sparks research and you start Googling “microlocs,” pinning inspiration photos on Pinterest, and scrolling through YouTube videos of loc journeys.
This stage can last months (sometimes even years). For many, the idea of microlocs lingers in the back of the mind for two or more years before taking action. At this point, it’s no longer a question of if you’ll start your microlocs journey, it’s simply a matter of when.
Tips for the Fantasy Phase:
Research and plan. Learn about hair types, locticians, and maintenance routines.
Save your inspiration. Collect styles, partings, and looks that resonate with you.
Prepare your hair. Focus on strengthening and moisturizing your natural hair before installation.
Mentally commit. This stage is about envisioning your journey and embracing the excitement of transformation.
Phase 1: Fluff
[Timing: Months 1 - 6]
The moment your microlocs are installed, your journey officially begins. This first stage is known as the Fluff Phase, when your hair is newly locked but still soft, light, and fluffy.
Depending on your installation method (braids, twists, or interlocs) your locs may still closely resemble your natural hair texture. At this point, you’ll often notice 1 – 2 inches of loose, curly, or coily ends that haven’t fully locked yet. For many people, microlocs can also look thinner and a bit “scalpy,” especially if your hair density is on the finer side.
But don’t worry, this is completely normal. The Fluff Phase is all about laying the foundation for what’s to come. In the first 6 months, it’s common for locs to appear limp or loose before they start budding and thickening. Think of this stage as the delicate beginning of a much bigger transformation.
What to expect in the Fluff Phase:
Freshly installed microlocs that feel light and fluffy.
Loose ends that remain curly, coily, or wavy before locking in.
A thinner or “scalpy” appearance, depending on hair density and parting pattern.
Locs that still resemble natural hair more than mature locs.
Tips for navigating the Fluff Phase:
Be patient. This is only the beginning and your locs will fill out with time.
Keep your scalp clean. Wash as recommended by your loctician to encourage healthy locking.
Avoid over-manipulation. Styling too much early on can disrupt the foundation.
Celebrate the journey. Take pictures so you can look back and appreciate your progress later.
Phase 2: Frizz
[Timing: Months 6 - 12]
By the 6-month mark, your microlocs are entering the Frizz Phase, a stage that can feel both exciting and a little challenging. After a few washes, your hair begins to roughen and tangle, creating the frizz that signals your strands are starting to lock. This is also when your regular reties help “train” the loose hairs to stay within your locs, reinforcing the structure.
During the Frizz Phase, you’ll likely notice budding, the first visible sign that your hair is officially locking. Buds look like small pea-sized balls along the hair shaft or near the ends of your locs, showing that the hair is matting together. At the same time, your microlocs will begin to swell and thicken as shed hairs get trapped inside, giving your locs more body and fullness.
What to expect in the Frizz Phase:
Increased frizz and fuzziness as strands intertwine and lock.
The appearance of buds along the shaft, showing early signs of loc maturation.
Thicker, fuller-looking microlocs as swelling begins.
A stage that can feel messy, but is essential for strong, healthy loc formation.
Tips for navigating the Frizz Phase:
Embrace the frizz. It’s temporary and a natural part of the process.
Stay on schedule with reties. Consistency helps train your locs and reduces unraveling or slippage.
Moisturize lightly. Use water-based sprays and light oils to prevent dryness without loosening the locs.
Protect at night. Satin bonnets, scarves, or pillowcases help minimize excess frizz and breakage.
Avoid over-manipulation. Let your hair settle into this phase without too much pulling or styling.
This phase typically lasts 6 – 12 months, depending on your hair type, density, and maintenance routine. While it may feel messy, remember: frizz and budding are good signs that your microlocs are maturing and progressing beautifully.
Phase 3: Form
[Timing: Months 12 - 18]
The Form Phase marks an exciting milestone in your microlocs journey. Around the one-year mark, your locs begin to truly take shape as the hair continues to interlock, mat, and tighten from root to tip. Unlike earlier stages, when frizz was everywhere, you’ll now notice a lot less fuzz as the strands begin to cement into place.
During this phase, your microlocs start to develop their signature cylindrical shape and are more solid than before. The texture feels different too. Instead of feeling soft and fluffy like loose natural hair, your microlocs now have more structure and density, making them feel like actual locs.
One thing to note is that while your locs are maturing in form, you might not see dramatic length right away. That’s because much of the change is happening internally. Your hair is compacting, swelling, and solidifying rather than stretching downward. Patience is key here, as this phase is often one of the longest parts of the journey.
What to expect in the Form Phase:
A more defined loc shape that looks less like twists or braids and more like true microlocs.
Noticeably thicker locs as shedding and matting continue to fill them out.
A decrease in frizz, with smoother and cleaner-looking locs.
Stronger, denser locs that are easier to style and maintain.
Tips for navigating the Form Phase:
Be consistent. Stick to your retie schedule to maintain uniformity and structure.
Hydrate your hair. Continue moisturizing lightly to prevent dryness without loosening the locs.
Avoid hand-in-hair syndrome. Minimize manipulation and over-styling to let your locs strengthen naturally.
Document the journey. Take progress photos to celebrate subtle changes and monitor growth.
The Form Phase is often when your microlocs begin to feel real and are no longer starter locs, but still not fully matured. This is a beautiful in-between stage where you can appreciate how far your hair has come while looking forward to the length, strength, and polish of the mature phase still ahead.
Phase 4: Flow
[Timing: Months 18 - 24]
Welcome to one of the most rewarding milestones of the microlocs journey, the Flow Phase. This is when you’ll start experiencing “the drop,” a term used to describe the moment your microlocs gain enough weight and maturity that they are no longer suspended or sticking upward. Instead, gravity begins to pull them downward, allowing your locs to hang and flow freely.
The Flow Phase is often celebrated because your microlocs finally reveal the length you’ve been waiting for. Earlier in your journey, shrinkage made it harder to see true growth, but now your hair begins to stretch out, hang lower, and showcase noticeable progress with each retie. You’ll also find that your locs have more movement and swing, giving them a natural, effortless look.
What happens in the Flow Phase:
Locs begin to “drop,” showing visible length as shrinkage decreases.
Microlocs feel heavier, fuller, and denser as they continue to lock from root to tip.
With increased movement, your hair sways, flows, and feels more like a finished style.
Styling becomes easier and more versatile since your locs now have both structure and length.
Tips for embracing the Flow Phase:
Stay consistent. Maintain a consistent retie and moisturizing routine to support healthy growth.
Have fun styling. Experiment with styles now that your locs have structure and length.
Protect your investment. Sleep with a satin scarf or pillowcase to preserve smoothness and prevent lint.
Celebrate the visible results. You’ve earned this stage of your microlocs journey, take before and after pictures to mark how far you’ve come.
This stage is a turning point in the journey, as many people finally feel the patience of the earlier phases paying off. The Flow Phase is proof that your microlocs are not only maturing but also thriving, giving you both the look and confidence you envisioned when you first started.
If you’re here now, embrace it. Uou’ve officially moved beyond the growing pains and are entering the stage where your microlocs shine with strength, length, and beauty.
Phase 4: Flourish
[Timing: Years 2+]
In the Flourish Phase, you may notice a slight loss of volume as your locs compact and settle into their final structure. But what you gain is even more rewarding: consistent length, strength, and definition. Your locs hang freely, flow naturally, and showcase the full results of years of patience and care.
What to expect in the Flourish Phase:
Fully mature microlocs that are tight, uniform, and stable.
Visible, continuous length as shrinkage is no longer a concern.
Endless styling possibilities, from elegant updos to free-flowing looks.
Frequent compliments and recognition of your locs’ beauty and maturity.
A deepened sense of confidence and connection to your hair journey.
The Flourish Phase is not just about hair, it’s about transformation. You’ve moved from fantasy, fluff, frizz, form, and flow to this stage of freedom and flourishing, where your microlocs reflect resilience, growth, and self-expression. At this point, your journey doesn’t end, it evolves, with every retie, style, and year of continued growth making your locs even more stunning.
Though the microlocs journey can feel long at times, stay the course. Every phase, whether it’s the Fantasy, Fluff, Frizz, Form, Flow, or Flourish, brings visible and invisible transformations. Your hair is evolving, your confidence is growing, and your patience is paying off. Take time to celebrate each milestone, because appreciating the journey is just as important as reaching the destination. Your microlocs are blossoming beautifully, one phase at a time.
